Chugach Range rising majestically behind Anchorage, AK.
The Voyage of                  INTREPID Line Picture of Intrepid, a Dorado designed by Jim Michalak
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The stem is a short little 5-inch piece of wood about 1 ½-inches deep that is cut on a bevel to join the sides of the boat together at the bow. The plans call for an 18 degree bevel each side of center. I drew a strong centerline on a block of fir, and clamped the block to the side of my building table.

Clamping stem to be to building table


The Skill saw's base is tilted over to 18 degrees. Each hash mark is equal to 5 degrees. The alignment pointer is not visible from this view, but it is underneath that shiny nut at the front of the saw.

Setting bevel on Skill saw to 18 degrees


One lop done, one to go. I just turned the block around and re clamped it to the table.

Loping off first side of bevel


Getting a test fit of the stem, which includes screwing it into place. Note how the sides were bent in: a looped rope was placed around the two sides and moved back to bring the sides in. The rope is tied off on Bulkhead 4. The plywood is so flexible that the sides can be brought together by hand. No Spanish windlass required.

Testing fit of stem


This is the final fit of the stem to the bow. The stem was left a little deeper than in the plans as I wanted to put the screws through the thicker section in the rear.

Final fit of stem to bow


You can see the nice fit achieved just using a Skill saw, a plane, and some sandpaper. I plan to fill in the gaps on either side of the stem with epoxy putty.

View from the back of the stem


The front of the bow will get some epoxy putty and some fiberglass. The stem was left long as per the plans, to be trimmed to size later.

Stem in profile


The stem is the last of the "framing stations" to be permanently affixed. I measured out an appropriate amount of epoxy to which I added a couple of teaspoon fulls of pine flour. I believe that this will help with the epoxy's gap filling properties. It can still be painted on, but it is not as runny as epoxy alone, and it will set up in a thicker coating without running off a vertical surface.

As the stem is currently held together by just four screws, two from the starboard side were taken out so that I could apply the epoxy. You can just see a a piece of scrap wood that I used to hold the sides apart for this operation, as Bulkhead 4 and Temporary form 2 are still firmly attached. This side gets glued and re screwed; I repeated the process for the other side.

Thickened epoxy is used to glue the stem on


I took the leftover epoxy and mixed in 3 or 4 more teaspoons of pine flour to make a putty-like mixture. This was then pressed into the two small gaps on either side of the back of the stem, and smoothed to the appropriate gentle curve shape with a tongue depressor.

Applying epoxy putty in the rear of the stem


The epoxy putty was also gooped on the front of the stem, where the two plywood sides come together. This was to be a concave curve, so I had to find something with an inside curve. I found that part of my main anchor cleat's profile was the ideal shape.

Using a line cleat as a shaping tool


I was left with a perfect rounded over bead of putty at the front of the stem. A little cleanup on the edges and a light sanding when it dries prepares it for some fiberglass tape.

Rounded profile to front of stem


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