In addition to the push-pull steering cable going up under the dash, you should see part of the wiring harness that connects to the Hobbs meter and the tachometer. There is a second bundle of wires that run from the throttle housing to the engine.

The throttle cable and the shift cable are being connected to the throttle housing. You have to specify the length of these cables once you determine the position of the housing.

The throttle housing is attached to the inside of the boat using stainless bolts. You can see the cables coming out of the right side of the housing. The grey handle is a combination shifter and throttle. On the top rear of the housing appears to be a small lever - this is the idle adjustment for cold starts. That red-coiled cable hanging down is attached with a clip to a spring-loaded switch. The other end would be attached to the boat's operator, and acts as an emergency cut-off switch should the operator get tossed out of the boat.

The steering cable housing is so stiff that I notched the side bracing so the cable could lay flat. It is secured there with a screwed cable tie.

The engine cowling has to come off as well as the plastic shielding from the right lower half of the engine.

Removing the lower shielding allows you access to this rubber gasket. Four things have to pass through the gasket: throttle cable, shift cable, control wire harness, and the positive and negative battery cables. It was a tight fit getting the plastic shielding back on over the gasket.

The top control cable goes to the forward/ reverse shifter, and the bottom one goes to the carburetor. You can adjust the cable to length by backing off the lock nut and screwing the black plastic connector in or out, then setting the lock nut again.

The cables are installed, and the outboard is buttoned up again. You will notice that the cables don't go directly to the outboard's cable mount. When you size your cables for the exact path they would take in your boat, you must add four-feet to this measurement. This allows you to end the cable run in a loop, which in turn allows the outboard the freedom to move and turn without binding.